1. Q. Can I use eco Soak Off Gel over acrylics or Gels?
2. Q. Will the gray UV lamp work with the eco Soak Offs?
3. Q. How many applications can I expect to get from the pots?
4. Q. What are the "French" application techniques that Elaine uses?
5. Q. I so love the pinks.. Could you possible tell me why it seemed to look like it shattered in a few days? Would that be cure time or too much of the clear or what? 
6. Q. The instructions for the eco gel states you can apply a tip or form
7. Q. I am experiencing shrinkage or "pull-back" on the first color coat, how can I avoid that?
8. Q. I am noticing some of my clients natural nails are curling with the soak-offs
9. Q. I am having trouble deciding on how long to cure each layer.
10. Q. Can I thin out the eco So Quick?
11. Q. How do I repair cracks and splits using eco So Quick?
12. Q. Will the eco 36w UV lamp can you cure all 5 fingers at once? Will it cure other brands of UV Gel Polish? Does it use "Phillips" bulbs?
13. Q. How important is stirring?
14. Q. Some of the pots in my order were less full than others, can you explain this?
15. Q. Does eco So Quick contain solvents that will evaporate?
16. Q. How can I clean my gel brush from the colors?
17. Q. I mixed some glitter in to my eco and it did not cure properly, now what?
18. Q. What is so special about eco's Removal Solution?
19. Q. The color seems to creep away from the edges no matter what I do. How can I correct this?
20. Q. Do you feel that with the advent and hype of these newer gel polishes in bottles that these "older" gel polishes will go by the wayside? Or do they still have a place on our desks?
21. Q. How do I get the eco So Quick Gel Polish Base coat thin enough?
22. Q. Can eco Soak Off UV Gel Polish be over cured?
23. Q. What is Dry Wiping and why do I have to do it??

Q. Can I use eco Soak Off Gel over acrylics or Gels?

A. If you use the soak off gels over traditional gel, it will not soak off at all.  It will need to be filed off.  If you use the soak off gels over acrylic it will soak off but will take some considerable time.  You will also be soaking off the acrylic at the same time since the chemical to remove the gels is similar to that used to remove acrylic.

Q. Will the gray UV lamp work with the eco Soak Offs?

A. The gray UV lamp is 6 watts, it won't work on Soak off gel.

Q. How many applications can I expect to get from the pots?

A. Let's talk about the 1/4oz pot. Most likely you can expect 30 - 40 TWO coat applications from each pot.  Some people will apply it too thick OR on big nails, if applied properly on normal nails you should get 50 - 60 applications per pot.
Don't forget that can use eco So Quick Soak Off to the last drop, you can not do that with the "polish bottle" types.

Q. What are the "French" application techniques that Elaine uses?

Method 1 -- Eco SOG entirely (no pen)
Prep as usual
Apply basecoat gel cure 30 seconds
Apply pink (transparent or solid color your choice) cure 2 minutes (I say 3 in the instructions because I know there are techs out there that don't change their bulbs often enough.  If you're good with your bulbs 2 minutes is enough for all colors IF you're doing a proper thin application!!)
OPTION Remove induction layer.  Only do this if you want to correct your smile line with another brush and get a crisper smile.  If you don't remove this layer it is OK.  But when you correct the smile it will soften the line again.  I remove my induction layer.  Slap on my white.  I take a clean nylon brush dipped in Finishing wipe and I make the most crisp, beautiful smile.
Cure 2 minutes
Apply a coat of Clear gel OR shimmer color (snow, diamond) and cure 2 minutes
Final coat is my clear Eco Sealer that is airdried in less than one minute.

Method 2 -- Cina French Pen (and truly my favorite method)
Apply basecoat gel cure 30 seconds
Apply pink (transparent or solid color your choice) cure 2 minutes
Absolutely remove induction layer.  The paint HATES it.
Apply Cina Nail Art pen to perfection.  If not, dip a clean brush in NON Acetone remover and fix your smile. Be sure paint is dry before next step.  Heat helps.  Your lamp is warm tuck the nails in the lamp for warmth.
Apply clear sog and cure for 2 minutes
Apply Final Coat of Eco Sealer that is air dried in less than one minute.

FYI, you can use any of the Cina Nail Art Pens during the white step to do art.  And still finish with Gel for long lasting Pen Nail Art.  :)

Q. I so love the pinks.. Could you possible tell me why it seemed to look like it shattered in a few days? Would that be cure time or too much of the clear or what? 

A. The few times I've had to address Shattering it was one of three things.

1) another topcoat was used rather than the Eco Sealer.

2) the combined layers were too many or each one too thick resulting in an over all "too" thickness. The thicker it is, the more ridged. It loses it's flexibility and becomes stiff.

3) UV Bulbs. They could have over cooked the gel.

Don't forget you do still need a sealer. It's not about the shine. It is about protection. Another possibility is using a glass cleaner with acetone in it and no sealer. Or exposure to a chemical I haven't been made aware of.

Seal those gels!

Q. The instructions for the eco gel states you can apply a tip or form

A. YES you can do a tip with the gel or sculpt but super short sporty length. Tip is better. I only do the sculpts to fix a corner. The gel is just too flexible.

Q. I am experiencing shrinkage or "pull-back" on the first color coat, how can I avoid that?

Eco Shrinkage can be caused by a few things and can also be easily corrected.

1. Too much base coat. If you're applying too much base, you're going to have a wetter "sticky coat" after the cure. So try using much less base. To be honest, you only "need" enough to cover that nail and protect it from the pigments. This will save you a ton of money in the long run.
2. Are you stirring the gels? (BeautyTech Shoppe has a great stir stick for only $5) You have to REALLY stir to get the pigments mixed in. It is important if the color is a frost, shimmer, or has glitter that you stir them well before application. REALLY scrape the bottom of the pot and stir, stir, stir. Do not worry about bubbles from stirring, the viscosity is such that the bubbles will float to the top and release almost in minutes. If you stir before you prep or even as late as before applying clear coat, they will be virtually gone by the time you apply. Even if you stir just before application the bubbles will pop as you brush the product on the nail.  There is no need to stir eco Clear or Base. You must however stir the White, as it does have pigment in it.
3. You may be applying the dark color TOO thin, try just a little thicker.
4. Use a clean dry brush to remove some of the sticky layer of the base coat before applying first coat of color.
5. Warm rooms can be a problem, the hotter a room (salon) the more the gel slips and slides. If you're working in a warm salon you might experience creeping back at the free edge. You shouldn't see any creeping back around the skin. (if you see this, then oils were somehow left behind during your prep). Storing your gel somewhere cool before you use it will help.
6. Use a clean dry brush and wipe off some of the sticky layer before applying first coat of color, also, a super super thin first coat helps prevent pull-back or shrinkage.
7. Apply all five starting with the pinky and ending with the thumb. When the thumb is done, quickly brush over just the edges (going from Thumb to pinky).
8. If you are "capping" the edges like traditional hard gel, you could be causing the issue as well. Capping the ends only results in more gel pooled at the ends.
9. If you just can't master that shrinking, save your shaping until the end. If you shape after application, before the top coat, the nails and gels are perfectly equal in coverage. No chances for snags on material, panty hose or tights. This won't cause lifting. In this case you would do: base, color, color, cleanse the sticky residue layer, shape, top coat

Q. I am noticing some of my clients natural nails are curling with the soak-offs

A. First, I want to explain why.  When your nails are moist they fluff up microscopically.  Like a sponge on your kitchen sink.  When they are dehydrated they shrink, again like that sponge.  When you overlay your nails with anything (even polish) you trap moisture that travels up from the bed of your nails and into your nail plate.  This is a normal occurrence.  But normally the moisture is allowed to evaporate and the nail stays at pretty much the same texture.  Now, once you get a little free edge.  The moisture that is puffing up the nail is able to evaporate under the nail plate causing it to shrink and curl.  Some people have this worse than others, while some won't have this at all.  It just depends on the porousness of your natural nail and how much size it changes at both ends of the spectrum.  This happens with Acrylic and Hard Gel as well.  The difference is, with good adhesion those products are stiff enough to "not" allow the nail to curl unless it lets go.  SOG's are super flexible, so when you start to curl it goes with it.

So now that you understand why, here's how you can prevent it....BEFORE it starts. 

The key being before...

When you reapply your SOG's (with little to no free-edge)...for your trouble nail curlers, apply some of the clear soak off gel "under the nail".  This will trap some of that moisture and keep it from curling.  You can also do this with brush on resin and an activator (spray or brush on).  Then when you go to soak off the nails in two or so weeks, it will come off as well.  Be sure to clean under the nail, dehydrate it according to your manufacturer's recommendation and then reapply and let it cure while your tops are curing.  For the shortest nails you may want to cure them upside down facing the light for at least a minute to be sure they got some light on them.

DEFINITELY send everyone home with cuticle oil.  Tell them to apply daily to their cuticles and under their nails.  This will also keep the surrounding skin from getting dry with the use of the soak off chemicals.

Hope this helps you all out!!
Elaine T. Watson

Q. I am having trouble deciding on how long to cure each layer.

A. Please, always consult the manufacturer of the product you are using.... For my Eco people (SOG) AND my Starlite or T3 Hard gel users.

I usually reserve certain information for my "educator training" or "advanced gel training".  When I do instructions, if I say "cure three minutes" you can almost bet that two minutes will be fine.  I usually add a little extra time knowing a large majority of lamp users are not changing their bulbs as often as they should. 

Soooo for my smarty pants techs (that change their bulbs) here is an example of what is ok (I'm going to use soak off as the model because you're all using that right now)

Basecoat...30 seconds is plenty. 
first coat of color....if it is dark.... full two minutes
if it is a light color still two minutes
if it is a transparent color (basically our clear pink) you can do 30 seconds

Second coat
if it is a dark color and this is your final cure coat ..full two minutes
if you are applying a clear cure over the top you can do a minute and a half
if it is a opaque light color same situation as dark colors (remember just because the pigment is LIGHT doesn't mean that there isn't a lot of it in there to make the color opaque)
if it is a transparent color (clear pink) ...one minute

Clear coat over color
full two minutes (over opaque and transparent colors)
this will finish off the cure.

Please don't get too crazy and micky mouse around with your cure times.  You'll regret it later when a client walks through the door and has allergies.  These cure times are shorter than you applying the other hand.  So why push it?  Also, those little UV rays get weaker the farther they get from the bulb.  It is true of how well they will penetrate that clear to get to the next layer.  You're not getting as strong a cure. 

My suggestion, if your cure times (full cure time..no cheats) are getting done before you're finished painting the other hand....leave it alone.  Don't take the chance.

Elaine T. Watson
Star Nail International
Vice President of Marketing and Sales

Q. Can I thin out the eco So Quick?

A. I saw the question asked of "another product"...if something is getting thicker in the UV category...do not play chemist and thin it out.  This isn't just nitrocellulose.   The Gel chemicals are not that forgiving.  You may not see the problems you're creating until weeks or months down the road.  One day, a client will come in with puffy red cuticles and you're not going to think, "It is my fault for playing chemist" because by then you'll have forgotten it.  But I can ASSURE you, an imbalance in a products ability to cure WILL cause adverse reactions.  Not today.  Not tomorrow, but in a year. 

Elaine T. Watson
Star Nail International
Vice President of Marketing and Sales

Q. How do I repair cracks and splits with eco SO Quick?

A. Apply one very thin coat of eco So Quick UV Gel Polish base. Sprinkled a fine grind clear acrylic powder, such as might be used with a dip system, cure for 1 minute and repeat. Remove the Sticky sticky residue layer, and light buff the nail to smooth out. Leaving that layer rough, continue with your color coats.

Fiberglass will work with Eco SOG as well as a repair method.  Wrap a free-edge with it for really boo boo nails.  Just apply clear gel under the nail as well as on top.  Float the fiber or silk into the wet uncured gel.  Slide it until it hangs off the nail then use your brush to tuck it under.  Press into wet gel there.  Cure 2 mins.  Be sure to do a little hand upside down cure to be certain that the underside got cured properly.  Don't trust the reflector on this one. 

Q. Will the eco 36w UV lamp can you cure all 5 fingers at once? Will it cure other brands of UV Gel Polish? Does it use "Phillips" bulbs?

A. Yes! The lamp can cure all 5 fingers at once and toes too! The base slides out simply to make enough room for doing gel polish pedicures. Several technicians have reported their eco UV lamp has cured other brands of UV Gel Polish with no issues. No, these are not "Phillips" bulbs, but..... Elaine recently ran a test on them. The lab sent her samples of gels and had her adjust the cure time on the sample because of the "china bulbs". Adding just 30 seconds to the cure time ended up being too much. Readjusting the cure times back to the "Phillips bulb" cure time, everything was fine. So our bulbs are equivalent to the "Phillips" bulbs.

Our bulbs are only guaranteed to work in our lights, we are unsure if they work in "all" lights. It depends on the components of the lights. We belive that as long as long as it is an electric ballast, our bulbs should work fine, but we have not tested them in every lamp. eco 36W Lamps are electronic ballast models and only bulbs manufactured for electronic ballasts should be used.

And now some great information regarding the bulbs from Nailz, Saskatoon, SK Canada
Most UV lamps have MAGNETIC ballasts... some of the newer UV lamps coming on the market have ELECTRONIC ballasts. The majority of UV bulbs (including Sylvania & Philips) will NOT work with electronic ballast lamps. There are UV bulbs available that will work with the electronic ballast lamps.

So what you should probably do is find out what type of lamp ballast you have. Your supplier should know this. If the lamp is more than a year old is probably magnetic... it seems the electronic ones just started showing up about a year ago..

There is nothing "wrong" with electronic ballasts (it is the future), however, they do not have enough "juice" to fire the magnetic type bulbs.

March 21, 2011 - more lamp/bulb information:
There is a whole issue going on right now with the UV bulbs & lamps. Apparently there is a "magnetic" & "electronic" ballast - this is what the bulb plugs into and causes it to light. It appears that the people supplying the lamps have arbitrarily decided to switch ballasts on the units when building them. The magnetic bulbs do not like the electronic ballasts and the electronic bulbs do not like the magnetic ballasts.

The different ballasts determine how many times a bulb will fire (light) before it needs to be replaced. According to what I am finding out, the electronic ballasts will have to have the bulbs replaced more frequently, but at a far lower price.

For the eco lamp, you can only at this time make the determination as to which type it is by the weight of the lamp. If the lamp weighs about 7lbs it is a magnetic ballast, if it weighs about 4lbs, it is a electronic ballast.

We are currently awaiting a shipment of the older style bulbs and do have the newer bulbs in stock.

The electronic ballasts are good for approximately 4,000 fires (lighting's), the magnetic about 20,000.

What we are recommending is the lamps with the electronic ballasts - replace the bulbs every 2 months for normal use. For the magnetic ballasts/bulbs every 4 months. You should also be wiping down the inside of the lamps and bulbs with a damp cloth at least weekly depending on your use of the lamp.

And to be clear, it is not so much the band of bulb, but if it was designed to light in an electronic or magnetic ballast.

The magnetic ballast bulbs cost MORE even though they last longer, they do not last THAT much longer to say this is the way to go without hesitation.

At this time our lamps being shipped with the electronic ballasts. This mess is going to take time to clear up - and it is my understanding this issue does not effect JUST our lamps but several other brands as well, although I am not sure who's or to what extent. For instance, brand A may have magnetic ballasts but are being shipped electronic type bulbs or the other way around. It's a mess for sure.

Lets do the math.
The magnetic ballast type bulbs cost an average of $10 each x 4 = $40 x change every 4 month (3x a year) = $120
The electronic ballast type bulbs [ours] cost $5 each x 4 = $20 x change every 2 month (6x a year) = $120

So long term there should be little difference in cost as to which type you use, what is more important right now I think is knowing which type you have (or are buying) and making sure you purchase the proper bulbs for THAT lamp.

Q. How important is stirring?

A. All the UV Gel Polishes - are gel/polish or gel/pigment mix. If not properly mixed at EVERY application time, at some point you are going to have am improper mix - too much color (polish or pigment) or not enough. You can cure polish or pigment all you want, nothing is going to happen. Lack of polish or pigment will give you poor coverage. If you are not thoroughly mixing EVERY time at some point the mix will be disproportionate and you will experience issues. Always use a tool with a flat edge (not a toothpick) -- an orangewood stick or Gel Stir Stick to really stir the gels. Scrape the sides and bottom, fold it over like you were mixing dough!

Q. Some of the pots in my order were less full than others, can you explain this?

A. Our pots are hand-filled. It's very difficult to scoop the same amount and drop the same amount in each pot. The goal is no less than the threads. The pots can only be half full for expansion issues when the foil is heat sealed to prevent leaking. Traditional gels don't expand as much as these UV Gel Polishes do.

We choose not to use machinery because it can damage the oligimers in the gels. The oligimers really don't like metal and the pouring machines are metal.

The fillers MUST freshly stir all the gels before they fill pots. This loads air into the gel. If they aren't careful, what seems full enough, can be too little after the air releases which is why some times you will find a less full jar. Just let us know.

Q. Does eco So Quick contain solvents that will evaporate?

A.  No, pots don't evaporate. We don't need the solvents to thin out our formulas because they aren't in the bottles. If you smell it, there is solvents. If you don't, there likely isn't. Eco is 100% solvent free. They only change to our product, is if you inadvertently expose it to UV light it will begin to cure

In order to thin down soak off gel to put into a bottle you have to add Solvents. That is what you smell. Those evaporate. Just like in Polish. Once those Solvents evaporate you're going to get a much thicker consistency. This can get tricky. Once the solvents are gone, and the formula gets thicker...you're left with too much pigment in too small an amount of gel, disrupting it's ability to cure properly.

Q. How can I clean my gel brush from the colors?

A. If you take a dappen dish and a little finishing wipe, you can dip your gel brush into that and "rinse" your brush free of your base coat or color. That is what I do when I'm working. I just swirl my brush into the dappen dish. I also find that it keeps my application soft. If I don't "rinse" the gel, it kinda makes the hairs seem stiffer. With a freshly rinsed brush, I'm back to that soft application I love.

Q. I mixed some glitter in to my eco and it did not cure properly, now what?
Sad but true, I was doing a set of rockstar gels on a lady Saturday. I used Red Rock, sprinkled on the red glitter, and cured. So I go to brush of the excess...NOTHING had cured. I'm not sure why the light (new bulbs) couldn't penetrate. A hot gelly mess!

A. Some glitters can reflect or block the UV rays from curing the gel. Especially if you are using glitter that isn't like a transparent mylar. The metallic glitters definitely don't allow light to pass through.

Also, if you're sprinkling it all on entirely in the one coat...you're ratio is definitely going to be too high in glitter to allow a proper cure (even if you think it's cured). You should do two coats, cured in between to achieve the full on glitter look.

UV cure products are tricky and can appear cured when they aren't...resulting in allergies over a long period of time.

Q. What is so special about eco's Removal Solution?

A. When I formulated the Eco I knew the acetone would eventually be a problem. With Acrylics our clients are soaking a set off every year, (every six months AT the most). So they aren't drying out like they would with constantly soaking off Color Gel. So I formulated our Removal Solution Differently. I added an emollient that keeps the skin from getting dried out. You actually can feel the oils on your skin as you saturate the cotton ball. I haven't gotten white spot complaints from my Eco Customers. I think this is actually helping. I also promote the cotton ball and foil method. It exposes less skin to the Soak Off and the body heat helps speed it up. I've gotten lots of emails, "What is in your Removal Solution? How is it able to soak off faster than straight acetone?" I normally would laugh but I actually have it figured out. Eco cracks and curls off with no effort. When the cracking process starts the emollients get in there with the Removal Solution formula. I am CERTAIN that is helping it get off the nail a bit faster. Down side, you just have to be super careful to have your clients "scrub in for surgery" after you're done soaking. This is what I say to everyone. "Wash your nails with soap, hot water and this scrub brush" hits, home a lot better than just, "go wash".
Kind Regards,
Elaine T. Watson

Q. The color seems to creep away from the edges no matter what I do. How can I correct this?

A. In regards to your creeping issues, many of the brands are starting to advocate a very thin, almost nonexistent, base coat. The darker the color the more noticeable the creeping will be. One technician tells me she removes the sticky residue layer after curing the base, she then tasks a quick rough to it with a white block, smoothing out the now slightly rough base. Move right into the color layers. This technician says she has been having huge success with retention, no chipping and no peeling using this method.

The colors seem to have this slippery characteristic to them. The colors WANT to just slip and slide where ever! When you leave the sticky residue layer, and/or the base is too think, you have excess sticky residue layer. The color will just slide everywhere and you will now have shrink-back or creeping. The more shrink-back you get, the higher the likelihood of peeling and chipping. Also remember that we have found "capping the free edge" actually promotes peeling and shipping, so you can skip that also.

Q. Do you feel that with the advent and hype of these newer gel polishes in bottles that these "older" gel polishes will go by the wayside? Or do they still have a place on our desks?

A. Absolutely those gels - both traditional hard and 1st generation soak-off - will always have a place on our tables right next to the UV Gel Polish, traditional polish and yes even acrylic.

I really think not only are the clients coming in with the "cure-all ills" mindset, some technicians have that thought process and are almost force feeding it to the clients.

These new UV Gel Polishes are not made to work on every client. Depending on the health of her nails, her day to day activities, even how we apply and give guidance on care and maintenance are all a factor on who this product will work well on and who will have problems.

Clients who are still on hard gels most likely will never be able to have any level of success on the UV Gel Polishes. Some have been moved to Soak-Offs, but most won't do well on them either. I say this because #1 when they started coming to me they had natural nails, weak, peeling, spooned, all sorts of workable nail-ailments that I could correct with enhancements. Some had so-so nails but are too rough on them to hold up with the UV Gel Polish.

When applied properly to nails that will work with the system you are applying, you will have long term success and happy clients - no matter if you are using UV Gel Polish, Soak-Off Gels, Traditional hard Gels -- It is our job to determine and recommend to the client which type of service will work best for her and her life style.

To blindly try and turn your entire book to UV Gel Polish is a very bad business decision. And I stand by that even if you had a all natural nail book. Not every one of them will do well on UV Gel Polish. Just think about the fact that Mary's polish lasts 6 days before it starts to chip, Sue - only 2 days and Donna well bless her heart, she can last as much as 8-10 before she starts to chip. Every one has the same nails but different life styles, different nail health.
Lorraine, webgirl
www.ManicuresThatLast.com

Q. How do I get the eco So Quick Gel Polish Base coat thin enough?

A. Too thick a base layer, when cured, will leave too much sticky residue layer. Too much sticky residue layer will cause the color layers to "float" and visual shrinkage can be seen at the tips, but sometimes around the entire perimeter of the nail plate. Your clients will experience an excessive amount of lifting and or peeling rather quickly. I know several technicians who have started to apply the base coats of the "bottle brands" with a gel brush rather than the polish brushes. Some use eco So Quick base with other brands of UVGP color.

To prevent excess sticky residue layer it is important you apply the base coat as thin as possible:
Using a regular nylon gel brush, get a little dab of the base on the brush and tap all 5 nails in the center with that one dab of base gel. "Scrub" the base coat onto the entire nail plate, then pull it down to the free edge, almost as if you were wiping it off. It will feel dry, and like your fighting the brush from sticking to the nail plate. Once cured, it is shiny, but it is not to much product, causing color to float on top of the sticky residue layer and no dry wiping should be needed. This is plenty of base coat, trust me. Then you can apply your color coats as needed.
Lorraine, webgirl
www.ManicuresThatLast.com

Q. Can eco Soak Off UV Gel Polish be over cured??

A. I can definitely give my own personal experience. First of all, my lab geeks have explained to me that the soak off gels I've worked with or created are from a Resin family. Which explains why the are able to soak off. Aliphatic or aromatic resins are the two types one being more superior than the other.

Regardless of their changes, in my own testing experience and according to our lab once curing is done it IS done ... But you can "over cook" so to speak. I see results around the 8-10 min mark. Clear gel is most noticeable. It starts to yellow. The pinks go peach because they too will yellow and mix with the pink tone. That is why people in tanning beds can have yellowed nails.

Structure wise, I have not seen any changes in under a 10 min cure. But to be fair I also have had no need to test over the 10 min mark.
Kind Regards,
Elaine T. Watson

Q. What is Dry Wiping and why do I have to do it??

A. The reasoning behind the need to "dry wipe" is too much base = too much sticky residue layer. The color layers now "float" around on the base's sticky residue layer causing the color layer to shrink back. To prevent shrinkage of the color layers, you need to dry wipe in some manner.

The biggest problem I find is technicians who are proficient at hard gels tend to apply UVGP in the same manner. This would be too thick. You need to think polish not gel, but even thinner than a traditional polish application. I received a sample of a polish bottle consistency brand and applied it on a friend. It felt so much like polish I lost my brains and applied thick as I would polish and it chipped that night!

Dry wiping:
Using a clean lint free wipe or clean dry gel brush, just wipe off some of the sticky residue layer and proceed with your color layers.

Another suggestion is to clean the sticky residue layer after curing the base, take a quick white block to the nails to lightly rough them up, giving the your color layers something to adhere to.

How to get your base REALLY THIN:
Some technicians who use bottle brands of UVGP are using a gel brush for the base coat application. This helps REALLY get the base REALLY thin. Pick up a small amount of base on a gel brush, tap it to 3-5 nails. Spread the base in a circular motion, cuticle to free edge, almost as if you are scrubbing it in. When the nail is covered, pull down, cuticle to free edge, almost wiping it all off. You should feel some resistance. Cure the proper amount of time for the product. Remember that the base usually cures a different amount of time than the color layers.

Lorraine, webgirl
www.ManicuresThatLast.com